(Baking.Soda.Bonanza).Ciullo .Peter.A.英文文字版.pdf
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1、2nd EditionPeter A.CiulloBAKINGSODABonanzaIn memory of Josephine Ciullo,Ida DeCiampis,and Alice Arcari,who brought dignity and love to good food and a clean home.ContentsAcknowledgmentsiIntroduction:Baking Soda,Naturally1Baking Soda Rises15The Household Alternative75The Environmental Alternative83Ba
2、king and Baking Soda103Recipes vvv 163The Alternative Baking Soda Alternative169Bibliography173IndexContents About the AuthorCreditsCoverCopyrightAbout the PublisheriAcknowledgmentsThanks,above all,to my familyClaudia,Marissa,and Adam.A special debt of gratitude is owed John Pote,for giv-ing me the
3、idea,and Jerry Reen,for sharing his his-torical perspective.Many thanks,as well,for the help and advice of the Hoffman family,Chris Lemmond,Tom Whitney,Dr.Wayne Sorenson,Steve Lajoie,Dr.William Jensen,and Jennifer Griffi n.IntroductionBaking Soda,NaturallyThat box of baking soda forgotten in your re
4、frigerator?It has a story to tell.Your entire interest in baking soda may be how well it keeps your perishables from smelling like Tues-days fi sh,but it is actually an amazing natural resource.Baking soda is the common name for sodium bicarbon-ate,a natural salt that touches your life from the insi
5、de out.Sodium bicarbonate is,above all,essential to the function-ing of the human body.It helps maintain the proper acid/alkaline balance of blood.It is the major vehicle of carbon dioxide transport from body tissue to the lungs.It is a pri-mary component of the duodenal fl uid that neutralizes stom
6、ach contents before they enter the intestinal tract.So-dium bicarbonate is also a component of saliva,where it helps to reduce the attack of orally generated acids on tooth enamel.For the uses we werent born with,sodium bicarbonate is available in virtually endless supply from the minerals trona and
7、 nahcolite,which supply the stuff in your refrigerator,and in briney lakes and lake sediments.Bicarbonate is also found in the worlds oceans,where nature uses it to help stabilize the carbon dioxide content of the earths atmo-sphere.ii Baking soda as a house hold staple was actually invented by its
8、consumers,not its producers.The use of baking soda to deodorize your refrigerator,dry-clean your dog,or clean everything from battery terminals to teeth was not con-trived on Madison Avenue.The scores of pop u lar baking soda applications featured in this book are really a testa-ment to consumer ing
9、enuity.Baking soda is a simple,cheap food ingredient for which generations of Americans have conceived some unusual,certainly unintended,but none-theless ingenious folk uses.While these folk uses grew as an all-American phenom-enon,most industrial uses are global.In addition to baked goods and mixes
10、,these include animal feeds,fi re extin-guishers,textile pro cessing,paper sizing,leather tanning,oil-well drilling muds,carpet cleaners,foam rubber,and paint strippers.Baking sodas unique attributes are even ap-plied to controlling toxic metals in drinking water,improv-ing waste treatment pro cesse
11、s,and reducing harmful smokestack emissions.Although it exists as an abundant natural resource,baking soda depends on sophisticated pro cessing to meet the strin-gent standards of quality and purity mandated for its many uses.This benefi cial amalgam of nature and technology may well be a worthy mod
12、el for our times.In an age of acute en-vironmental and ecological awareness,when chemicals are suspect and all things natural are preferred,baking soda has emerged as possibly the worlds“greenest”chemical.ImtroductionvBaking Soda Rises 3 Baking soda in America began,naturally enough,with baking.Its
13、foothold in American homes was based on its use as a leav-ening agent.THE PEARLASH EVOLUTIONThe discovery of baking soda began with potash,a crude potassium carbonate extracted from wood ashes.American colonists learned how to purify potash into the pearlash(a more concentrated potassium carbonate),
14、which became an important ingredient to their booming soap-and glassmak-ing businesses.By the mid-eighteenth century,production of potash and pearlash had grown from a cottage industry to a major commercial enterprise.The colonies,with treesto burn,began exporting huge amounts of these carbonates to
15、 En glands glass and soap factories as well.It was during the 1760s that the use of pearlash in baking became pop u lar.Bakers had been using tedious and diffi -cult hand kneading as well as long-rising sourdough starters to leaven bread.Pearlashs high potassium carbonate con-tent made it quite alka
16、line and was initially added as a natu-Baking Soda Bonanza4 ral counter to the sourness caused by the acids in sourdough.Bakers discovered,however,that besides sweetening the dough,pearlash accelerated its rising by liberating carbon dioxide gas bubbles as it reacted with the sourdough acids and bak
17、ing heat.This ability of pearlash to create in minutes the leavening gases that required hours from the natural sourdough yeasts revolutionized baking.The popularity of pearlash was fueled by two nearly con-current developments in the United States.In 1796,Amelia Simmons published the fi rst America
18、n cookbook,Ameri-can Cookery,which featured several recipes requiring pearlash.At the same time,Oliver Evans was pioneering the fi ne grinding of wheat into lighter,airier fl our.Almost at once,the home baker had pearlash,a growing body of in-structions on how to use it,and increasingly available fi
19、 ner fl ours.THE SODA ASH REVOLUTIONAlthough pearlash remained the premier industrial carbon-ate in America well into the nineteenth century,the Ameri-can Revolution convinced the governments and industries of western Eu rope that their rapidly expanding need of American carbonates was po liti cally
20、 and eco nom ical ly un-wise.There was precious little Eu ro pe an woodland left to sacrifi ce to wood ash,and the only natural alternatives were the limited supplies of crude carbonates produced from the ashes of seaweeds and plants.The situation became so alarming that the French Academy of Scienc
21、es offered a prize in 1783 for the best pro cess for converting common salt(sodium chloride)to soda ash(sodium carbonate).Nico-5 las LeBlanc won the prize in 1791 for his method of react-ing salt,sulfuric acid,coal,and limestone.Soon soda ash plants proliferated in Eu rope.The now plentiful local su
22、p-ply of sodium carbonate replaced imported American po-tassium carbonates.SALERATUSThe development of todays leavening bicarbonate from the industrial carbonates took different routes in Eu rope and America.Eu ro pe an chemists bubbled carbon dioxide gas through solutions of sodium carbonate to for
23、m the less alka-line sodium bicarbonate.This chemical was dubbed saleratus,meaning“aerated salt.”Saleratus was adopted by the medical community as a safe and effective treatment for acid stomach.By the 1830s,Americas home bakers had discovered that the sodium bicarbonate imported for medical use was
24、 a superior(albeit expensive)leavening alternative to pearlash or the American version of saleratus.It released its carbon dioxide quickly in recipes and was less prone to bitter aftertastes.American saleratus,potassium bicarbonate,was fi rst made by Nathan Read of Salem,Massachusetts,in 1788.He sus
25、pended lumps of pearlash over the carbon dioxiderich fumes of fermenting molasses.The dry pearlash absorbed the carbon dioxide,converting its potassium carbonate to potassium bicarbonate.By the early nineteenth century,brewers and distillers were making saleratus as a sideline in much the same way b
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